The Arrival of Magugu House
JOHANNESBURG, South Africa — In the midst of running a global fashion business, it’s not always straightforward to figure out the next move, so it was a pleasant surprise to see that Thebe Magugu announced the opening of its first flagship “campus” in Johannesburg, South Africa, no less with a WWD exclusive.
Thebe Magugu has long voiced a desire to lead a major fashion house, but has also stated he is not willing to relinquish his own name brand in the process. For as many who give up their own entities including Maximilian Davis (now at Ferragamo), a fewer number have been able to maintain dual responsibilities of running a European label and keeping their own stable a la Virgil Abloh and Off-White. Magugu seems to understand the risks do not outweigh the benefits.
Magugu House / Photo: Blake Woodhams
With Magugu House, he takes it one step further beyond investing in a physical retail flagship to develop this “campus” framework, which offers a broader definition outside of selling into museum, workshop, and communal space. As much as there is commerce and experiential elements, Magugu House is also about reckoning with history and offering a deeper understanding of the connective tissues that have shaped the brand’s heritage thus far.
Thebe Magugu for Dior / @thebemagugu
It’s certainly not the first retail innovation of its kind, but it’s worth noting its presence in a complex landscape still dominated by wholesale players. Strong multi-brand retailers Temple Muse (Nigeria), Merchants On Long (South Africa), and Lotte Accra (Ghana) among others thrive by bringing together a continental assortment. But on the directly-operated-store front, the motivations are not simply demand-driven. Flagship retail serves a purpose different than what multi-brand wholesalers can provide — to bring the hyper-specific world of the brand to life. The rising costs of frankly everything can make that possibility feel rather impossible. Still, progress is happening: Nigerian resort wear label Andrea Iyamah opened her second flagship outside of Lagos last fall while fellow South African brand MaXhosa announced plans to open its first US store in New York this year.
Magugu has navigated quite well keeping an eye to the outside just as much as he has kept his ears on his home country. A recent campaign spotlighting 18 iconic figures of the nation are a firm reminder of his priorities, but initiatives like the family heirloom collection geared towards celebrating a multitude of ethnic origin stories expands his purview to a more global one.
Even collaborative projects with Valentino, Dior, and Canada Goose have upped the ante for his brand’s awareness on a bigger stage. This space will hopefully do the same to bring scores of folks to experience the fashionable side Johannesburg has to offer and generate loads of sales too.