Designers To Watch: Isshī

NEW YORK, United States - In prior periods of economic uncertainty, anecdotal evidence suggests that consumption trends in fashion and jewelry can shift towards subtlety as consumers weigh their purchase decisions more carefully to focus on products of value, longevity, and most importantly, discretion. One of the most common reasons being if you have the discretionary means to spend, difficult times for society might encourage you to do so with a level of understatement. This return to subtlety can certainly favor the brands that possess a timeless sensibility while logo-heavy ostentatious designs can quickly fall out of style. With the current economic crisis attached to a global pandemic and subsequent lockdown plus social justice uprisings in countries all over the world, suffice to say any prediction on consumer behavior for the rest of the year is undeniably naive. That said, if the return to subtlety trend is here again, we would like to introduce you to Isshī, the jewelry brainchild of founder and creative director Rolly Robínson.

Launched at the start of the year, the enchanting jewelry label while still in its infancy has established a distinct aesthetic grounded in exacting hand craftsmanship and ecological consciousness. Prioritizing precious dollars on pieces of meaning signal an investment in your wardrobe to last a lifetime of wears and jewelry should be no different, especially for a category that is often so personal to the wearer. Isshī’s array of one-of-a-kind earrings, necklaces, and bracelets of freshwater pearls, paillettes, and blue agate will bring some much-needed beauty now and in the years to come. PROTOChic caught up with Robínson on maintaining an active imagination in the midst of these times and running a made-to-order business in New York.

PROTOChic: You launched Isshī in 2020. What inspired the launch of your 100% handcrafted eco-conscious, semi-fine jewelry, and objects? How has your vision come to life in this first year of business?

Rolly Robínson: I learned to create jewelry from my mother. When I was young and living at home, we used to make all kinds of things together. Working with my hands is very important to me, and it shows in my work. I came here to show artisanal craftsmanship through a unique approach that is carried through the realms of fantasy and imagination. When you look at anything I do, it's very distinct. You know Rolly Robínson made it. You know it's Isshī. I feel like my vision continues to come to life every single day I wake up, and I am so grateful for that. I'm happy to be doing what I love.

PROTOChic: Isshī centers on a clear and strong visual identity, augmented by your other-worldly sketches and strikingly beautiful art direction. The images appear to reference this place between childhood and adulthood. Where do these references come from and how has your background as an artist informed the overall aesthetic?

Rolly Robínson: I have always had a rather complex and subversive imagination. As I age, my sense of imagination grows with me. It's really important for us as humans to never let that go. Because I grew up in the south, in both Tennessee and Florida, nature was always a source of inspiration. Beach and aquatic motifs, in addition to family memories, are all nuances that can be seen in the treasures that I create. Everything from the illustrations, to the creation process, to the branding. People want to wear things that make them feel good and look good. Those are important traits of anything tangible, but it's also important for those pieces to tell a story and evoke an emotion.

PROTOChic: Each piece is meticulously made-to-order from your New York studio. What are the challenges with handicraft in New York? How has the global pandemic shifted your approach if at all?

Rolly Robínson: Something I firmly believe in is to let the material do what it wants. Granted, I am manipulating it to be what I want, but I feel that there is a special connection between my hands and the resources I'm using. My specialty is in beading, wire work, and embellishing amongst many other techniques. Something that can be challenging, especially because I work from home, is the ‘structure’ of a work day. During Covid-19, I’ve learned to be okay with resting and sitting with myself. I created my Spring/Summer 2021 collection all during quarantine and it's something I'm extremely proud of and in love with. There are still ways as a business to thrive, but I believe it really depends on what your motivation is. Now more than ever I want to showcase these unique treasures and spread beauty through the art forms that I do, to give people something else to look at during such a heavy time.

“I go with my gut and I go with my heart. I know exactly where I want to be and I’m going to be there. Period. ”

— Rolly Robínson

PROTOChic: What key habits have you adopted to keep you disciplined, focused, and positive about your dreams?

Rolly Robínson: I go with my gut and I go with my heart. I know exactly where I want to be and I'm going to be there. Period. The simple fact of knowing I have work to do is what keeps me disciplined.

PROTOChic: Before you go, can you share one of your earliest jewelry memories?

Rolly Robínson: All the women in my family have impressive jewelry collections, and I've always grown up around it, so it's tough to hone in on one specific jewelry memory. But if I had to choose, I would pick two: my mother's first wedding ring and her vintage solid 14 carat gold feline hoop earrings that I am now the proud owner of.

This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.

Lead image courtesy of Isshī / @isshi.us