"Quick Take" is a new series dedicated to short-form insights on the business of fashion and the expanding industry across the diaspora. From Johannesburg to New York, catch our take on the creatives capturing our collective imagination.

need to know: palesa mokubung

Another day, another first where congratulations are in order - Johannesburg-based Palesa Mokubung is the first African designer to collaborate with Swedish retailer H&M. Mantsho x H&M launched last week marking 15 years since H&M’s first designer collaboration in 2004 with Karl Lagerfeld. Fifteen also marks Mokubung’s years since starting her label. Without knowing the terms of the agreement, suffice to say that this represents a critical step in creating a more equitable fashion industry whereby diaspora creatives can take a tangible part in the economic benefits of their creative contributions, in particular at scale which a major retailer like H&M offers. As of August 15 release, 11 of the 17 Mantsho x H&M styles priced between $24.99 and $89.99 are already sold out. Let the days of creative inspiration without monetary compensation be nearing its long-awaited end. Available worldwide and online here.

must-have: thebe magugu

Thebe Magugu is slowly building a global brand from his base in Johannesburg, South Africa as one of the two African finalists of the 6th annual LVMH Prize, whose winners will be announced in Paris on September 4. The other African designer is Kenneth Ize. The prestigious prize comes with 300,000 euros and one year of mentorship from the LVMH Group that includes personalized technical advisory in intellectual property, sourcing, production and distribution, image and advertising, and marketing. Last year, we described Magugu as ‘staking his claim to unconventional daywear designed to match the multi-faceted needs for the women in his spheres.’ Today, his brand codes have no doubt developed with confidence. Come September, we await the results. In the meantime, Thebe Magugu’s Red Flora Satin Printed Twill Coat with Bra Inset from his latest collection “African Studies” is providing ample inspiration.